Coriandrum sativum — a winter herb in the low desert. Plant October through March, harvest the outer leaves, and let the last planting go to seed for coriander.
Cilantro bolts. Every variety, no matter the label, sends up a flower stalk within days of the first 85°F afternoon and turns from salsa herb to feathery seed plant. That makes it a strict cool-season crop in Queen Creek: October through March, planted in succession every three weeks so there is always a young plant coming on. Treated that way it is fast, generous and trouble-free.
When the last planting bolts in April, let it — the flowers feed hoverflies and the seed is coriander. The rest of the edible benches are on our Herbs & Vegetables page.
This is the cilantro we commonly carry. Availability changes week to week and season to season, so call (480) 987-3308 or stop in to see what’s on the bench today.
Standard cilantro/coriander: broad, flat leaves for salsa and curry, then white flower umbels and round seeds. A cool-season herb here. Bolts fast in heat — plant in succession.
Looking for one that isn’t listed? Ask — we can usually suggest a close match or tell you when it tends to come around.
The care tag was written somewhere else. This is the Queen Creek version.
Transplant from October through March, every three weeks, for a continuous supply. A planting in October yields until it bolts in late March or April; one set out in March bolts in weeks. There is no summer cilantro in the low desert — grow Vietnamese coriander or culantro for the warm months if you need the flavor.
Rich, well-drained soil or a good potting mix, kept evenly moist — every two to three days in fall and spring, every four or five in winter. Drought stress triggers bolting even in cool weather. Cilantro has a taproot and resents transplant disturbance; plant the whole root ball gently and don’t move it again.
When it bolts, leave a few plants: the white umbels attract hoverflies and lacewings that patrol the vegetable garden for aphids, and the green seeds are a fresh, citrusy spice. Dry the seed heads in a paper bag for coriander and to sow next October.
Full sun in winter; morning sun with afternoon shade in October and again from March on to slow bolting by a couple of weeks. It grows leggy in real shade.
Cut outer stems at the base as needed, leaving the crown growing; a plant harvested this way yields for six to eight weeks. When the leaves turn feathery and a stalk rises, the leaf harvest is over.
A light balanced or fish fertilizer every three weeks. Aphids in warm spells; hose them off. Cilantro is non-toxic to cats and dogs.
Photo of the bed, how much sun it gets and what you want to eat — we’ll match varieties and planting dates to it. Advice is free.
We stock raised-bed and vegetable planting mix, compost and steer manure by the bag or the yard, organic vegetable fertilizers, tomato cages and stakes, shade cloth for the May-to-September stretch, frost cloth for January, and drip fittings. The pottery yard has half-barrels and 15-gallon pots for patio vegetables, and soil and mulch is sold by the bag or by the yard.
Heat. Cilantro flowers as soon as afternoons pass about 85°F, and drought stress speeds it up. Plant only from October through March, keep it evenly moist, and replant every three weeks.
No. For a cilantro flavor in the warm months, grow Vietnamese coriander or culantro (recao), both of which tolerate heat.
Every two to three days in fall and spring, every four or five in winter. Never let it dry out; stress makes it bolt.
Cut the outer stems at the base and leave the center to keep producing. A plant yields for six to eight weeks.
Leave it for the beneficial insects, then collect the seed — that is coriander. Sow it next October.
Yes — non-toxic to cats and dogs.
Cilantro live on the herb and vegetable benches; any staff member can point you to them. Locally owned, and a short drive from San Tan Valley, Gilbert, Chandler and Mesa.